Travel: Madiera

I crossed the Atlantic half-awake, but landed in Madeira ready to go. My parents picked me up at the airport and I have my first at Adega Moniz. I kicked off lunch with charcuterie, white sangria and garlic steak.

The first full day started with espresso.. I biked all day—difícil in the truest sense—with Bike Tour Madiera. I spent the day climbing levadas, soaking in perfect weather, powering through a chicken lunch, and eventually rolling into Santa Cruz completely spent. I learned what Madiera ice is and got completely coated in mud. I also tanked it in some thorns and have the scars to prove it.

After a long shower to attempt to get off the mud, I met my parents for poncha and we walked to Restaurante Casal da Penha. We started with garlic bread, and onion soup. For a main course I had duck rice. The patio air was so refreshing after a day biking. I finished with a bite of brownie back in the hotel.

The next morning I grabbed mom & dad and went wandering along the Banana Walks (RB2 & RB3) eventually stopping at the Banana Museum. I learned two facts that stuck: banana trees aren’t trees at all but the world's largest perennial herb—and each plant only produces one bunch. I got a banana beer and enjoyed the sun and the rest my legs had after yesterdays biking.

From there we popped into Ponta do Sol and then up to scattered viewpoints. We ventured into Ribeira Brava, for a late lunch at Restaurant & Grill Muralha Terrace. And after driving back into town, I did evening drinks at Restaurante Arraial da Imperatriz.

The next day, we drove north to Porto Moniz. First we stopped by the natural lava pool sand then some with some easier concrete for getting in them. It was far too cold to float but I tanned next to the water all day.

Lunch stretched lazily, followed by a waterfall drive. We stopped by Miradouro Ilheus da Ribeira da Janela —big rocks that jutted out of the ocean. Then we drove through a sunny fanal forest and saw a cow standing near a lake like it had nowhere else to be.

My dad and I headed back into the fog to do a small hike, Bica da Cana peak and viewpoint. Dinner brought me back to Restaurante Arraial da Imperatriz for pizza with walnuts!

The next morning we had a foggy drive that turned into a quick wine stop. We went into Camara de Lobos where I sat near where Churchill hung out. I had a rose sangria and wandered the shore collecting small treasures.

In the evening I walked through Funchal and had dinner at Theo. The fried green beans were so perfect. I could snack on those all day long. The butter had shreadded olives in it to make it salty. Just wonderful I ended the day with cocktails at Dash.

In the morning I hiked PR8 – Miradouro de São Lourenço, the easternmost edge of the island.

This island is now one of my all time favorite places to hike - this whole are was dramatic.

Lunch brought me back to Adega Moniz, then a drive that nearly turned into another hike before landing again in Santa Cruz. Dinner at Taberna do Petisco closed the loop.

The next morning I tackeld the PR9 hike to a giant waterfall in the middle of the woods. I hiked through caves and along side levadas on cliffs.

Post hike I drove to Porto da Cruz and had drinks at North Mills Distillery.

Before dinner I stopped by the iconic Santana Houses. I got more steak at Serra e Mar—which was a lovely family meal.

“When the island doesn’t give you what you want, drink poncha,” was exactly what our guide said to us as he picked us up for a sunrise hike along PR1. Part of the hike is closed from fires, so we hiked out as far as we could and then came back.

To get down, we hiked along PR3. Nerd clusters and snacks got us through but when we finally got back into town we stopped for pastries at Petit Four Bakery. Eventually. we surrendered to napping by the pool.

The next morning I woke up and wandered through Monte Palace Tropical Garden. I started with coffee and sketching while hiding from a passing shower before going deep into the gardens. I loved the flamingos and the water! There was so much of it.

Watched the famous toboggan sleds glide pass by for a while.

Then I spent the afternoon by the pool resting from yesterday’s trek.

I set off to do a hike but the weather foiled me. Instead, I visited the fog at Fanal Forest.

We stopped by Seixal Beach and picked up some sand.

We returned to Pico do Arieiro, then chased northern viewpoints like Miradouro do Guindaste. I drank poncha at Miradouro de São Cristóvão, drove through Serra de Água, and crossed into Encumeada.

Back in town I spent some time with Mom & Dad.

We got drinks at Bar No. 2 and duck rice for dinner at ComTradições.

I admired the painted doors of Funchal’s old town and bought new jewelry from Artium.

I sprinted across town to catch sunset at Praia Formosa. I crawled up on a big rock to see everything and watch the sky fade away.

Another cold, viewless hike attempt gave way to the beach at Machico. Post beach time I walked downtown, drank poncha in the park and watched ships arrive and leave. I picked up a new cork purse as a souviner.

Dinner that evening was at Kampo but here are some other shots from meals at Konsai | Poke & Japanese Food and informal.

On my final morning I ate a scone and watched Funchal wake up. We all revisited the beach where I’d ended my bike ride on day one.

I had one last lunch at Adega Moniz before flying to Lisbon.

I took the train into the city and went shopping. I picked up an olive leaf ring and springy bracelet. I saw a beautiful rainbow over the city. Dinner was pizza at Zero Zero in Time Out Market. Then I stayed up way to late at bubbles before a walk home.

The next morning brought coffee and avocado toast at Hello Kristof. I did a long walk to the Treasury Museum and saw all the shiny objects.

My final stop was to LX Factory where I got empanadas before slowly making my way to the airport.

Portugal has always been special to me and I am grateful to now have experienced a new part of it.