Travel: Greece
Just got back from a trip to Greece for Labor Day Weekend with my friend Becky. Though we had never traveled together before, it felt like it was the millionth time. She made it super easy to settle in and have a blast.
We landed in Athens and immediately did the most important thing: got coffee. At The Attic we started with an iced coffee with cold foam and eggs benedict to set the tone for the day. With our cameras out, we wandered the streets, passing the Arch of Hadrian, the Hadrian Library, and letting the city reveal itself.
In the Plaka Market, we encountered a mysterious cookie—donut-shaped and polarizing. Beloved by Natalie and politely rejected by Becky. We finally checked into our Airbnb to take a shower and power nap.
After we were all clean and rested, we climbed to the Acropolis of Athens with Rick Steves in our ears. I learned that nothing is straight but everything is intentional in the design. The straight lines were optical illusions. I loved the columns that were inspired by Amazonian women. Apparently the braids on the back were gorgeous, so I got myself a little ornament to remember them by! Apparently from the top, you can see one in four Greeks!
Dinner at Lyra was exactly right: burrata, pine nut salad, moussaka, meatballs, tzatziki, pita, and the Guilty Passion cocktail (vodka, ginger, prickly pear, mandarin, lime, prickly foam).
The night ended at Couleur Locale with strawberry-and-grapefruit cocktails and the quiet thrill of day one officially complete.
Morning coffee came from The Brunchers, then we joined a gourmet food tour that became a full-on love letter to Athens. Inside Café Veneti we sampled spanakopita and semolina sweet pie; at Krinos (open since 1923) we ate loukoumades that blurred the line between donut and churro.
We tasted nuts in the meat market, shared small plates and ouzo at a neighborhood taverna, sipped wine and olive oil with The Artist, and finished strong with gyros from Savvas.
A little market wandering followed where I secured a small bracelet before heading to the airport for our flight to Santorini. After landing, we quickly learned that Our Airbnb was a dream. It was a ten minute walk from the city center, and was quiet and away from the crowds.
That evening, golden light did all the work. We wandered past bookstores, picked up local cider and beer, and ended the night with gelato from Kayak—Belgian chocolate and mint in a dramatic black cone. We took our beers home to have them in our private hot tub.
We woke before the sun and failed (temporarily) at finding coffee before FINALLY succeeding at Piccolo.
We saw the Three Bells of Fira from both sides as we began the legendary Fira to Oia hike—6.5 km of cliffs, sea, and awe.
Lunch at Pitogyros Traditional Grill House restored our energy before heading down the terrible stairs to Ammoudi Bay. We explored the Castle of Oia and soaked up the sun. We took the bus back for three dollars to Fira.
We rewarded ourselves with wine from Santo Wines and a hot tub soak. Dinner at Fanari brought potato cheese fries, calamari, zucchini balls, tzatziki. We got gelato part two at Kayak. I got Dubai chocolate, very trendy.
Breakfast and coffee came with a view at 360 Cocktail Bar. The view was better than the food. Then we spent the late morning at Venetsanos Winery, tasting wines and cheeses, including Chocolate Kormos—a salami-shaped chocolate biscuit log served with homemade vanilla ice cream. This was the prettiest glass of wine I have ever had.
Post winery, we boarded a ferry to Crete (almost the wrong one!). Once on a new island, we picked up a rental car, found our Airbnb, and closed the day with gyros and a Paradise Tiki cocktail at Ombra Café.
The next morning I made coffee at the apartment and walked the beach finding sea glass. Once Becky woke up, we drove to get pastries at Bakery Genetzakis.
Our drive too us to Politakis Olive Oil Mill, where we toured and tasted olive oils!
Next, we headed to Scalarea Estate Winery for rosé.
Then Becky drove us up massive switchbacks that led us to the Lasithi Plateau Viewpoint, complete with windmills and a charming roadside shop. We waved at Potamos Beach. Before dinner, I got a strawberry-mint-pomegranate drink at Peskesi where we made a reservation for the next night.
We ended the night with an unforgettable dinner at Apiri Greek Eatery: meatballs with romesco, onion dolmas, spinach salad with goat cheese, and truffle-kissed potatoes. Hands down this was my favorite meal of the trip. The city buzzed as we walked home completely full.
We started slow with coffee at the apartment and a morning swim, showering outside while beach goats and kittens looked on. After checkout, we stopped at the Keri Forest Viewpoint. I spotted a climber mid-ascent and vowed to come back to climb.
Then we wandered through Karavolas Park. Many shops were closed in town, but we got an early dinner at Peskesi. They delivered one final triumph: bread with beet yogurt dip, zucchini cheese blossoms, and smoked pork chops.
The Crete airport tested our patience—but Greece had already given us more than enough to carry home. I’d love to go explore more of the islands and spend more time driving around Crete.